The May Experience is now over. Overall, the trip was amazing. I met many people, experienced new things, and gained a new appreciation for the culture here in Tanzania. Over the past week, our group finished off the trip with a safari with a group called Klub Afriko, based out of Arusha.
The weather in Arusha is much cooler than in Zanzibar. We departed from Zanzibar in a small puddle jumper plane sweating profusely, and arrived in what felt like the Arctic comparatively. It took quite a bit to get me to come back to the hot weather here in Zanzibar.
The Safari was an incredible experience. We traveled in three Safari Vans, with the crew from Klub Afriko. The drivers, Julias, Elias, and Samuel were all Maasai, and all very nice. Over the five day trip, we stayed at three locations. We first stopped at Lake Manyra. Here, we took a drive through the lake park and saw Dig Dig, Elephants, Babboons, and several bird species.
As we were ending our drive, one person in our car noticed elephants right next to the road, and we promptly drove up to them. For about ten minutes, we observed a baby elephant and another more mature elephant walk around and eat. Our eyes were wide and filled with excitement as we looked upon these massive creatures so close. Then, out of nowhere a third, much larger elephant appeared out of the trees right next to our van. That excitement quickly turned into fear as a quite large, seemingly upset elephant came rushing out flapping its ears walking directly towards our van. It was at this time everyone slowly sank back down into their seats, and our driver Julias turned on the van and we quickly drove on.
After the lake, we traveled to the Serengeti happy to be alive. We spent two days there. Our first night, at around 9 p.m. as everyone was geting ready for bed, we noticed some sounds rather close to our tents. We looked around for a bit, and quickly realized there were three giraffes literally in our campsite eating out of the trees. My first thought was, if something as large as a giraffe can get into the site...what else can make it through? It was at this time I hastily went back to my tent, took a few sleeping pills, and zipped my temporary haven of safety shut. Luckily, nothing else made it into the site, despite the Black Mamba snake some others saw on the way in...In the Serengeti, we saw many Zebras, Wildabeast, Giraffes, Hippos, Gazzelle, Hyenas, and Lions.
One evening, our van actually got to get up close and personal with a Lion Pride of about 17. All three of our vans stopped and watched in awe for about thirty minutes. My van was the last to leave, which turned out to be both a blessing...and a curse. As we started to leave, we noticed the pride began to move, so we slowed down. At first, the pride seemed to focus on a watering hole...but then we found our van was their end goal. Suddenly, our van was totally surrounded by the Pride of Lions as they circled around it checking us out. Nothing bad happened as it seemed they were just curiousabout us, but it was quite scary nonetheless. After about ten minutes of this, we were ableto leave, that is after the Lion that sat down in front of our tire got up.
Our final destination, Ngorogoro crater, was spectacular. The crater is so vast, that it actually formed its own ecosystem. The drove down into the crater was breathtaking. Driving inside the crater, we saw many of the same animals from the Serengeti, (without the whole surrounded by a Lion Pride thing), plus some Maasai people who were allowed to utilize the land for their goat herds. It was amazing to see the Maasai people using the land walking with spears amongst the Buffalo, Lions, Zebras, Lions, Elephant, Wildabeast , and Hyenas.
After leaving the crater, we traveled to a Maasai village, and had the opportunity to actually get up close and go inside the village. The people began with a welcome song, as the men gruntedand chanted, while the women sang. All the while children were dancing in the middle of the dirt between us and the villagers. After the singing, we went to the childrens schoolhouse, and then took a look inside the Maasai homes called Bomas. The experience in the village overall was positive, but some people did have some reservations about our time there. Some felt we were intruding, others felt it was a very touristy, constructed, and heavily commercialized experience (after touring the homes they had alot of beads and jewelry ready to sell us). Personally, I felt the experience was a good one. Although I do agree it seems todd to use these people as somewhat of a commodity, we still got to see inside their village, and looked into a small window of what their life is like. Additionally, in the world we live in today, it is very difficult for the Maasai peoople to live stricly how they used to. Now, much of the land is off limits for their use, and must pay around 400 dollars a month to ship water to their village. Yes, they can use the Ngorogoro crater a bit, but no doubt there are many restrictions on its use. Because of this, the Maasai people need new outlets for making money, and tourism is their way to do it. Through groups such as ours who pay to enter their village and enjoy hearing their songs and seeing where they lived as well as purchase their jewelry directly, instead of from the markets, they are able to afford new livelihoods such as sending their children to schools in the city, and paying for villagers to travel the world and bring awareness to their community.
Now, we are at Hotel Kiponda in Zanzibar preparing to begin our research, and I am very excited for it. I will do my best to continue posting blogs, but the internet access is sparse, as one might expect.
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Conservation, Culture, and Cooperation
This trip has continued to prove to be an amazing experience. We left Stone Town, and are now staying at Panga Chumvi, a beach resort on Matemwe, located on the northeastern part of Zanzibar Island. Although the weather continues to be quite hot...as tropical regions tend to be...the location here is once again, very beautiful.
This post will focus on the experiences and information gathered during our groups tour of the park. Jozani Chwaka bay national park is located at about 35 kilometers from Stone Town on the southeastern part of Zanzibar Island. The three areas that will be discussed include the geographic nature of the park, biodiversity, and social influences that permeate the park. These three topics relating to the park are then explained through a personal reflection in the context of conservation efforts in Tanzania.
The name of the park itself carries two meanings. The first is "The Flooding of the Rainforest". This name primarily speaks to the geogaphic nature of the park, as certain regions of the park tend to remain wet year round. The second is "Comes from the small pond". The park area is divided into four distinct ecosystems. These are Swamps, Coral, Salt Marshs, and Mangroves. As one might imagine, as a result of this ecologic diversity, the park is 1 of 25 biodiversity hotspots in the world. The park is home to many endemic and endangered species, including some that are only found within the confines of Jozani Park. These include 10-15 leopards that migrate throughout the park, theTuraco bird, Casina Jozani Frog, and over 100 bird species.
The park is also home to a variety of snake species such as the green mamba, forest cobra, python, and other tree snake species. (And yes if you were wondering I did indeed contemplate sprinting over to the bus and locking myself inside it upon learning of the species we may come across). In particular, the less dangerous, but far more destructive species to the native farmers reside in the park as well. Both the bush pig and the colobus monkey make a habit of either eating the roots of plants, or completely destroying farmers crops in the region. Because the animals are such a problem, many farmers try to harm the animals whenever they see them. Although we did not get to see the Bush pigs, (which is probably a good thing as they are supposed to be huge and quite possibly could eat me), we did get the special privilege of getting up close to the monkeys as they jumped from tree to tree.
The park is also home to a variety of snake species such as the green mamba, forest cobra, python, and other tree snake species. (And yes if you were wondering I did indeed contemplate sprinting over to the bus and locking myself inside it upon learning of the species we may come across). In particular, the less dangerous, but far more destructive species to the native farmers reside in the park as well. Both the bush pig and the colobus monkey make a habit of either eating the roots of plants, or completely destroying farmers crops in the region. Because the animals are such a problem, many farmers try to harm the animals whenever they see them. Although we did not get to see the Bush pigs, (which is probably a good thing as they are supposed to be huge and quite possibly could eat me), we did get the special privilege of getting up close to the monkeys as they jumped from tree to tree.
In addition to the animal biodiversity in the park, there were many native and non-native species of plants and trees living within the park, many of which are used for medicinal purposes in the area. These range from child birth, child prevention, stomach issues, diarrhea, malaria treatment, headaches, joint pain, infections, convulsion treatment for children, and a host of other treatments for illnesses. Really, if there is a problem, the Zanzibari people have at least two or three types of plants/trees that can help it seems. Culturally speaking, we learned the trees also served as outlets for some of the darker aspects of society as well, which especially as an outsider (Mzungu) you should not openly talk about with local people. Many people in Tanzania still today follow witchcraft and spell making. Those who practice dark medicines and spells are called Witchdoctors, and are said to be able to cast curses on people, as well as assist in matters ranging from love all the way to revenge. Our guide explained that roots, barks or leaves from many trees can be used to make potions or concoctions for spells, such as love potions, for luck, and other things of the sort. Leopards are apparently seen to some here as mystical animals that are bewitched by witch doctors to be their pets. Supposedly, the doctors cast a spell over the animals to make them their servants/pets. According to tradition, these leopards can serve an additional purpose, which is to act as an assassin of sorts for the witch doctor. Some believe that the witch doctor can command their pet leopard to kill farmers animals for them. In this way, the doctors are able to create an image of power over the local people by producing a sense of fear. Because of this, whenever a person saw a leopard, it was quite likely for them to feel a sense of fear, as they were aware of what the witch doctor was capable of instructing the animal.
Because of the diversity that exists within the park, it is important to promote conservation efforts. Since species such as the Colobus monkey, Zanzibar Juti Butterfly, and Casina Jozani Frog are endemic to the region, it is important to promote efforts to protect their species. The mangrove forests also serve many purposes to society which merit protection. The forests not only provide shelter to many coastal species, but also protect local villages, as they keep the land from eroding and giving away during particularly harsh rainy seasons. Culturally, the forests and flora present in the area serve a unique purpose for the local people through their customs, spiritualism, and medicinal practices. Because of this, conservation efforts across Tanzania, and particularly on islands such as Zanzibar, Mafia, and others, must account for the social and cultural impacts of their work. Organizations need to work with the people when creating policies, rather than against or above them. Without consulting with and getting information from the indigenous people, conservation efforts may never truly be successful.
As this trip continues, I learn more and more about the cultural history of this place and how intricately tied the people are with their environment. This enlightenment serves as both inspiration and opportunity for personal reflection on what I can contribute to this world. I am excited for the coming days that may not simply provide me the opportunity to experience more, but also learn as well.
Monday, May 13, 2013
Stone Town, Zanzibar
Hujambo!
Our group made it to Stone Town, Zanzibar. For the past few days, our group has explored the town and all it has to offer. The atmosphere and feeling here is very different than our firts location, White Sands Resort, Dar Es Salaam. This however, is not surprsing. We are staying in a hotel called Kiponda Hotel, located in the middle of Stone Town. Although the conditions are not nearly as nice as they were before, I find this place to be simple and charming. We do have a fan and a personal bathroom for the four of us in the room, which has proven to be quite nice. The first night though we had a bit of a scare. As our group prepared to leave for dinner, the power cut off. Immediately I was concerned we would not be able to keep the fan on in the room, but in time the power cut back on.
Over the past few days, we have gone to several local restaurants and the food here is actually quite good. The most interesting dining experience was when we went to the local food market. Upon entering the food market, as a tourist, you are immediately targetted by multiple food vendors saying they "will give you the personal experience and fresh food that the other stands do not". I heard this statement quite a few times, leading to my conclusion that their food was neither personal, nor fresh. I avoided these people. The trick I learned from dr. farris and byceson, is to sit back and see where all the locals are going as well as avoid the people who go up to you personally. The people who wait at their stands and are very casual typically are the safest places to go.
The marketplace itself is not absent from agressive vendors. A perfect example is when I was followed for give or take 40 minutes by one guy who wanted to sell me a necklace. After I told the man no thank you many times to no avail, we entered a shop hoping to ditch him. Sadly the man waited for me in the shop, hoping I would notice the great prices he was offering compared to what was in the shop. A friend of mine John-Michael even turned and literally said to him "please stop" which resulted in the man only becoming upset, saying we needed to be nice to the Zanzibar and give him money. This man was out of luck, as he was obviously unaware that I am not a nice person, and felt like being mean.
Thus far, we have enojoyed two lectures from different professors here in Zanzibar. One professor, professor Narma, tought us about women's involvement in pearl and shell farming here in Zanzibar, and how she is fighting hard to overcome the cultural barriers that prevent women from obtaining equal pay in their work. Her work focuses on getting women to learn how to make different types of jewelry and sell them in the marketplace. Many of the women start off shy and timid as a product of the muslim culture here, but over time through their work, they learn to be more open and feel free to talk. We also learned the history of Tanzania from Dr. Bryceson as he traced the trajectory of social and economic development over-time.
A bug literally just fell into my Ipad case...it wont leave.
Tomorrow we leave Zanzibar for jozani national park where we will spend a few days learning more about the botany there and medicinal uses of plants.
Our group made it to Stone Town, Zanzibar. For the past few days, our group has explored the town and all it has to offer. The atmosphere and feeling here is very different than our firts location, White Sands Resort, Dar Es Salaam. This however, is not surprsing. We are staying in a hotel called Kiponda Hotel, located in the middle of Stone Town. Although the conditions are not nearly as nice as they were before, I find this place to be simple and charming. We do have a fan and a personal bathroom for the four of us in the room, which has proven to be quite nice. The first night though we had a bit of a scare. As our group prepared to leave for dinner, the power cut off. Immediately I was concerned we would not be able to keep the fan on in the room, but in time the power cut back on.
Over the past few days, we have gone to several local restaurants and the food here is actually quite good. The most interesting dining experience was when we went to the local food market. Upon entering the food market, as a tourist, you are immediately targetted by multiple food vendors saying they "will give you the personal experience and fresh food that the other stands do not". I heard this statement quite a few times, leading to my conclusion that their food was neither personal, nor fresh. I avoided these people. The trick I learned from dr. farris and byceson, is to sit back and see where all the locals are going as well as avoid the people who go up to you personally. The people who wait at their stands and are very casual typically are the safest places to go.
The marketplace itself is not absent from agressive vendors. A perfect example is when I was followed for give or take 40 minutes by one guy who wanted to sell me a necklace. After I told the man no thank you many times to no avail, we entered a shop hoping to ditch him. Sadly the man waited for me in the shop, hoping I would notice the great prices he was offering compared to what was in the shop. A friend of mine John-Michael even turned and literally said to him "please stop" which resulted in the man only becoming upset, saying we needed to be nice to the Zanzibar and give him money. This man was out of luck, as he was obviously unaware that I am not a nice person, and felt like being mean.
Thus far, we have enojoyed two lectures from different professors here in Zanzibar. One professor, professor Narma, tought us about women's involvement in pearl and shell farming here in Zanzibar, and how she is fighting hard to overcome the cultural barriers that prevent women from obtaining equal pay in their work. Her work focuses on getting women to learn how to make different types of jewelry and sell them in the marketplace. Many of the women start off shy and timid as a product of the muslim culture here, but over time through their work, they learn to be more open and feel free to talk. We also learned the history of Tanzania from Dr. Bryceson as he traced the trajectory of social and economic development over-time.
A bug literally just fell into my Ipad case...it wont leave.
Tomorrow we leave Zanzibar for jozani national park where we will spend a few days learning more about the botany there and medicinal uses of plants.
Friday, May 10, 2013
I am alive!
Hujambo! (Swahili for hello).
I made it to Tanzania in one piece! The traveling from the United States to Africa was quite long, but worth the trip. I had never traveled for such an extensive period of time before, and was worried the 24+ travel time would be too much for me. However, I made it through and actually found the travel to be quite enjoyable. On the first flight I even met a woman who was a professional dog show judge! Upon arriving in Dar Es Salaam, I immediately felt a feeling of relief, excitement, and the jitters. On the one hand, the countless hours of flight were over, however I was now in a totally foreign and new country. I wondered how easy it would be to obtain clean water, If I was gonna get sick (or how quickly it would take me rather than if), would I be able to handle the coming weeks, etc. Above all though, I was overcome with a feeling of excitement amidst the hot, muggy air of Dar es Salaam.
So far we have stayed in a resort called the White Sands Hotel. The resort is very nice with beach side rooms, restaurant, giftshop, and a pool. Our group has greatly enjoyed staying here, however as Dr. Suresh and Farris have made clear, we are not to expect these kind of conditions for long.
Today we visited Mbudya Island, where we learned the difference between the sands at the resort and on Mbudya Island. The sands at the resort are made from quartz. The sands on Mbudya Island are made from dead biological material (corals, etc.). While both beaches appeared to be the same, it is important to remember that looks can be deceiving. On the island the locals caught fish for us and cooked them right on the spot and it was delicious! After lunch we got to snorkel for a bit, however the water was deep and a bit murky to see anything. The rest of the day we relaxed, ate dinner, and prepared to leave in the morning.
I hope to continue to have enjoyable experiences while traveling here in Africa, even if they may not be as luxurious as they are currently.
I made it to Tanzania in one piece! The traveling from the United States to Africa was quite long, but worth the trip. I had never traveled for such an extensive period of time before, and was worried the 24+ travel time would be too much for me. However, I made it through and actually found the travel to be quite enjoyable. On the first flight I even met a woman who was a professional dog show judge! Upon arriving in Dar Es Salaam, I immediately felt a feeling of relief, excitement, and the jitters. On the one hand, the countless hours of flight were over, however I was now in a totally foreign and new country. I wondered how easy it would be to obtain clean water, If I was gonna get sick (or how quickly it would take me rather than if), would I be able to handle the coming weeks, etc. Above all though, I was overcome with a feeling of excitement amidst the hot, muggy air of Dar es Salaam.
So far we have stayed in a resort called the White Sands Hotel. The resort is very nice with beach side rooms, restaurant, giftshop, and a pool. Our group has greatly enjoyed staying here, however as Dr. Suresh and Farris have made clear, we are not to expect these kind of conditions for long.
Today we visited Mbudya Island, where we learned the difference between the sands at the resort and on Mbudya Island. The sands at the resort are made from quartz. The sands on Mbudya Island are made from dead biological material (corals, etc.). While both beaches appeared to be the same, it is important to remember that looks can be deceiving. On the island the locals caught fish for us and cooked them right on the spot and it was delicious! After lunch we got to snorkel for a bit, however the water was deep and a bit murky to see anything. The rest of the day we relaxed, ate dinner, and prepared to leave in the morning.
I hope to continue to have enjoyable experiences while traveling here in Africa, even if they may not be as luxurious as they are currently.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)